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Please note that the manufacturer warranty on your Fiskars product covers incidence of defective workmanship and/or materials. It does not cover wear and tear caused by regular use, misuse or accidental damage.
If the product was purchased less than 12 months ago please contact the retailer from where the purchase was made. The retailer may offer a replacement product or store credit so we would suggest that you contact the retailer in the first instance. If the retailer is unable to help then please follow below instructions.
If purchase was made more than 12 months ago, please complete the form here ensuring that all mandatory fields are completed with the relevant information. Please note that all enquiries must be accompanied by a digital photograph(s) of the product, ensuring that the photograph(s) are of the complete item and provide clear evidence of the suspected damage/fault. Failure to submit photographic evidence will prevent your enquiry from being processed.
Please use our Store Locator to find stores selling Fiskars products near you.
Please send your enquiry to our Customer Service team on firstname.lastname@example.org including a contact telephone number. Your details will be forwarded onto the relevant account manager who will contact you in due course.
For any PR related topics, please complete the form here ensuring that all mandatory fields are completed with the relevant information.
If you are interested in making creations for Fiskars, please send an e-mail to our Consumer Service with all your details, with a short presentation of your crafts background, with pictures of several creations you made using Fiskars products and with any additional material you think useful to us (examples of publications, design team memberships...).
Fiskars products do not have a lifetime guarantee in Europe. The guarantee on any Fiskars product is against defective workmanship and/or materials. This does not cover normal wear, sharpening, industrial use or damage due to abuse, misuse, neglect or accidental damage. We will replace defective products once an assessment has been carried out which confirms an issue with quality.
Products will not be replaced if they have broken or developed a fault due to misuse by the consumer, i.e., if the product has not been used for it’s intended purpose.
Wash the dish with a mild detergent before using it for the first time. Always put some fat or water in to the dish before you start cooking. The dish is ready to be used when the fat is golden brown or when the water has evaporated. Reduce the temperature as soon as the food starts boiling or frying. Do not overheat the dish. Wash the dish immediately after use. Rinse carefully afterwards. Keep the steel surface bright by drying it after washing. To avoid stains on the inside of the casserole add salt when the water is boiling. The fittings may become hot, please use pot-holders.
Wash the dish with a mild detergent before using it for the first time. Always put some fat or water in to the dish before you start cooking. The dish is ready to be used when the fat is golden brown or when the water has evaporated. Reduce the temperature as soon as the food starts boiling or frying. Do not overheat the pan. Temperatures of over 240 °C will damage the coating. Avoid sharp objects or cutting on the pan. Wash the pan immediately after use, this prolongs the lifespan of the coating. Rinse carefully afterwards and avoid extreme temperature changes. Any embedded traces can be removed with a washing-up brush and hot water. Avoid storing food in coated pans. Fiskars coatings do not contain PFOA.
Buy several pairs > Decide which scissors will accomplish what tasks and use them for only those purposes.
Wipe blades after each use > This prevents build-up of lint and other debris that can get caught in the pivot area and interfere with the way your scissors performs. For normal cleaning, wash your scissors with soap and water. Wipe off and dry scissors before using or storing.
Oil Scissors > Oil your best scissors/shears every once in a while at the screw assembly and between the blades at the pivot area. Wipe excess oil off the blades to prevent staining.
Don't force cutting > This damages the blades and alignment. If it's too hard to make the cut, your scissors are too light or too dull to complete the task. Cut heavy things near the pivot, NOT near the tips of the blades. Cut carefully hitting a pin can cause jags or nicks in the blades, making it difficult to cut.
Don't drop your scissors > Dropping can break or knock your scissors out of alignment.
Store scissors > Keep scissors in a safe, dry, cool, clean place. This will avoid damage to them and prevent accidents.
Sharpen or replace blades > Do this as needed to ensure optimal cutting performance.
Test for sharpness > Draw a five-point star about the size of a dime on a sheer piece of fabric. Start in the center and cut out to the points. If the star edges are clean, your scissors are sharp enough. If the edges are jagged, you need to sharpen your scissors.
You can sharpen scissors with the Fiskars® Scissors Sharpener.
It can be used with right-handed scissors and straight blades.
You can adjust the tension of blades according to the cut material thanks to the adjustment screw for some scissors.
Comfortable > Try out all different kind's of scissors for a good, comfortable fit.
Lightweight > The scissors should provide comfort after hours of extended use.
Cut Through Multiple Layers of Material > If possible, test scissors before purchasing them. Bring in scraps of materials so you can see how the scissors perform.
Cut fabric sharply from pivot to point even an incredibly dull pair of scissors will cut paper, but only a quality pair will cut fabric without sticking or stopping.
Bent-Handled Scissors > These special handles encourage accuracy when cutting on a flat surface.
Contoured Handles > These handles give you more comfort because they follow your hand's natural curves.
Spring Action Scissors > These scissors will make your job easier by doing more of the work and reducing hand fatigue.
Look for durability and easy-to-use locking mechanisms.
Test scissors' tension > When you open and close the blades, they shouldn't feel too loose or too tight. They also should sing (!?)
Blade tips > The tips of your scissors/shears should meet at a precise point.
Use full cuts. Always have the fabric between your blades when you cut. Never open and close the blades without fabric between them.
Pinking shears cannot be sharpened, although it maybe possible to regrind the blade edge.
The easiest and quickest way to finish seams is to trim them with a Pinking Shears or a Rotary Cutter with a pinking blade. This works well on all fabrics except those that ravel easily. Hold both sides of the seam together and trim, then separate and press open.
The easiest and quickest way to finish seams is to trim them with a Pinking Shears or a Rotary Cutter with a pinking blade.
This works well on all fabrics except those that ravel easily. Hold both sides of the seam together and trim, then separate and press open.
Replacing Blades > When replacing the blade, take the rotary cutter apart and reassemble in the same sequence. Be sure the new blade is on the side of the cutter that is nearest to the cutting line. Do not overtighten the knurled nut on your cutter when reassembling. This will slow the blade and make cutting much harder. The blade should turn easily and slice through fabric with little resistance. After reassembling your cutter, make a few test cuts to make sure the blade is working properly and to remove any oil left on the blade edge. Don't throw away your dull blades, save them for cutting batting, paper or craft projects.
Safety > Always disengage the blade and put it back into housing between each and every cut. Always cut away from your body and away from extra material on the table. Always keep arms, finger and hands away from cutting edge. Always use a cutting mat on a flat surface. For straight cutting, enhanced accuracy and safety, use a ruler.
Cleaning of blades > Carefully remove blade from housing of rotary cutter. Place rotary cutter on flat surface. Hold steady with forefinger on center of blade. With paper towel in opposite hand, gently wipe blade. Always wipe away from center past the outside edge of blade. Wiping from the outside to the center could result in injury. To remove sticky substances from blades, hold in center of blade with forefinger and thumb. Immerse blade in hot, soapy water. Rinse with hot water. Place between two pieces of paper towel on flat surface and gently pat dry.
Always place mats on a hard, flat surface while cutting.
Store mats flat to avoid wrapping.
Do not roll up.
Keep mats away from heat and out of direct sunlight.
Freezing temperatures may cause mats to become brittle.
Vary where you cut on your mat.
If you always cut in the same location, that spot will wear very quickly.
Cleaning your cutting mat > Clean mats using lukewarm water and mild detergent.
Do not use abrasives of solvents.
You can flatten the mat by placing a couple of kitchen paper in the freezer until very cold.
Place your cutting mat on the counter and put the frozen cookie sheets on top and weigh them down with something flat and heavy.
Leave them in this position until the mat has flattened again for a few hours.
This will normally solve the wrapping problem.
It depends on the use frequency of the ShapeCutter™ and the material you cut: the more the material is thick , the more the blade is fast frayed. In average, you can cut 500 patterns with a blade on basic weight paper.
To prolong blade life:
We always recommend to put down the ShapeCutter™ on its plastic base when non -used, this enables to protect the blade.
Do not put down it with the blade upwards to avoid cutting risks.
Using a blade for each type of material (one for paper, one for fabric, one for metal…) is recommended.
The orange button on the top ShapeCutter™ arm enables to adjust the blade depth according to the cut material. You need to adapt it. A line shows where to place it,
- a thin line for thin paper, - a thick line for thick materials.
There are a few of reasons a ShapeCutter™ might not be cutting correctly.
- to cut free hand, keep the orange base - to cut with a ShapeTemplate™, remove the orange base - place fingers on the Softgrip® parts - place the blade against the Shape Template™ border and follow the shape, the wrist doesn’t have to move thanks to the swivel blade
Fiskars® self healing mat :
- placed on the correct side ( so that we can read « Fiskars® ») - essential for a good use of the ShapeCutter™ - the blade doesn’t catch for a uniform cutting without snag - Protects the working surface
Shape Templates™ :
- placed on the right side (so that we can read « Fiskars® »). - remove the orange ShapeCutter™ base- Several patterns available
ShapeCutter™ blade :
- must be locked in the SC (closed orange lock button) - adjust the blade depth to the cut material (handle) - must be not too used (otherwise it snags). - ideally, before beginning, place it on the cutting direction to avoid snags
The ShapeCutter™ enables to cut multiple supports:
- Paper up to 210g - Sticker - Thin metal sheet - Polyphane (middle thickness) - Plastic sheets- Fabric : by gluing beforehand a paper sheet at the fabric back with temporary glue, cut to the paper side.
When cutting fabric, it is advisable to place it against some scrap paper (80g). Use heat sealing paper or glue with temporary gluing properties to stick you fabric to the paper then use the ShapeCutter™ on the paper side. This technique makes the fabric a little firmer, which facilitates a more precise cut. When you have finished cutting the fabric, simply remove the paper.
No, the tool works in the same way and offers the same creative possibilities, the new version includes technique improvements :
- The adjustment button replace the adjustment screw for the blade depth. On the former version, you need to turn the screw to adjust the blade to the material depth. - The portable orange base has been added but the former version enables also to cut freehand or with Shape Templates™, it depends on the blade depth.- Silicone parts have been added for more control and comfort.
After use, clean stamps with soap and water. Dry thoroughly.
Return stamps to backing sheet and place in original packaging for storage.
When coloring an embossed area, use a piece of scrap paper to mask off or cover areas that you don't want color.Any time a color is used over an embossed area with the stencil in place, residue can be transferred to a clean area.
Therefore, it is important to clean the residue off the stencil. To clean, use a damp cloth, lanolin free baby wipe, or dampened cotton ball.
There are two stencils with each pattern because, unlike brass stencils with a lightbox, you do not need to be able to see through the material you are embossing onto with the ShapeBoss™. Simply place the material you wish to emboss between the two stencils and emboss! The purpose of the top stencil is to give you a pattern to follow with your stylus. The purpose of the bottom stencil is to allow the stylus to push the material down into the patterns, which stretches the material permanently, creating the raised embossed image.
Using the white pattern printed onto the border punch, begin by punching once anywhere along the border.
Slide the punched section over to the left or right until it lines up directly with the white printed section on the tool.
Continue in both directions until the entire border is punched (see more on product page).
Using the border punches, you can create wonderful lace effects on paper, by varying the effects according to the colours and types of paper.
With the personal paper trimmer 30cm, cut out strips of 3cm wide (or more according to the desired result).
Then, place a paper strip in the border punch aligning it with the beginning of the white design on the base of the border punch. Punch while pressing firmly on the blue lever. Repeat the previous instructions along the length of the strip.
Turn the punched strip around to punch the other side and repeat the previous pattern in order to obtain a symmetric lace punched design.
To create a longer border than the punch base, you need to align patterns on the base printed silhouette.
Embossing means that the image is raised slightly - when we flip an embossed image over, forming a slight depression and giving a mirror image, this image is called deboss. Why not try alternately embossing and debossing a row of motifs?
For large areas or open designs of our stencils, you only need to emboss around the edge of a shape. Do not "color in" the shape, that will cause undesirable lines in the middle of your design.
Use the largest stylus possible, as there is a reduced risk of pushing through the paper.
Thicker paper or cardstock is ideal for embossing and create great results. Very thin paper tends to tear easily and is best avoided.
Whatever surface you emboss on, it makes it much easier to emboss if you rub the back of it with wax paper. This acts as a lubricant and your stylus goes much more smoothly along the surface.
When embossing thin metal, you can add a piece of thin craft foam underneath, which will add more depth to your embossed design. Be careful not to press to hard into the softer surface as it may cause the stylus to "tear"the metal.
Remember, you can emboss a design and then cut out around it and add it as an embellishment to other surfaces.
An inch is a little more than2,5 cm.
A conversion ruler (inches / centimetres) is included in the 2-in-1 punch.
Moreover, all Fiskars® trimmers have both graduations, it is very easy to cut paper in multiple inches.
To help you emboss smoothly and without 'scratching', use a piece of wax paper and rub the paper to be textured or the tip of your tool.
You can also use a candle but be careful not to rub too hard as you will leave wax traces.
It can also be useful to rub the point of your texturing tool on the candle to help ensure a smooth embossing motion.